There is so much to say about Fes. The medina is the largest urban area without automobiles, and it's normal to see a donkey and cart carrying a washing machine or a refrigerator or a million chickens in cages up the hilly streets of the medina. We arrived late-ish, and quickly made our way to the Riad Lune et Soleil, where we spent our first night. After the dusty long roads of Morocco, driving by olive and argan trees, the difference was magical. We stepped into a courtyard of lemon and orange trees and a fountain in the middle, a tiled green oasis with books along the walls and four adorable tortoises roaming the garden. We settled into the corner table with books and the birthday present that I still haven't finished for my sister and glasses of wine and mint tea - and then the call to prayer started. Dashing to the bougainvillea-filled terrace, we got to hear the last of the unearthly haunting melodies and watch the sunset as the city lit up.
We ate that night at Thami, somewhere that's actually pretty famous but doesn't make very good food at all (oftentimes, after Paris, dinners in Morocco were disappointing) and wandered back to our hotel for a very good night's sleep.